In which we had a Christmas day dance-off...

...and won, clearly.

After our pilgrimage to the Great Buddha of Kamakura, we returned to downtown Tokyo to spend the night at a friend's apartment and get ready for an early morning trip to Tsukiji Market.  We had heard that if you can bear to wake up before the crack of dawn and make your way unobtrusively through piles of fish slime and whizzing buzz saws waiting for freshly auctioned creatures of the deep, you can watch them auction off hundreds of thousands of dollars of premium grade tuna.  Whether or not four white people, three of whom tower at 6+ feet, can be unobtrusive in Japan was beside the point.  We were getting ready for an adventure.

Of course, Joe and I realized that waking up before 5:00 a.m. was not a sensible option, and that a much more reasonable choice would be to simply stay awake until 5:00 a.m.  And what better place to stay awake in Tokyo than at ageHa, a massive club on the waterfront?

Our mother wholeheartedly concurred with the logic of this plan.

And so, our looks completed by a pair of fly kicks (Joe) and fake eyelashes (myself... perhaps not an experiment to be repeated) we set off.  Though the DJs were only okay, the poolside dance floor proved to be the perfect setting for an impromptu dance-off with a couple of Japanese hipsters.  Five years in Eastern Europe combined with countless off-the-chain-basement-raves (Joe) and more than a few kitchen-dance-parties-of-one (yours truly) to make us the clear winners.  We politely bowed, clutched hands, and smiled our goodbyes to our new friends before we returned to the main floor where hundreds of Japanese people faced the DJ and bobbed ever so slightly side-to-side as the beat pounded from every direction.

You see, Japanese people don't dance.  Well, perhaps that is too broad a statement... at all of the live performances that I have been to, the audience appeared to have all gotten together pre-show and decided that they would, under no circumstances, deviate from the side-to-side bob.  As with many things in Japan, the gaijin did not get the memo and can be easily spotted as their fellow concert goers politely bob away leaving a "safe zone" around the dancing deviant.

We eventually tired of all this space-clearing and realized that 5:00 a.m. comes faster than one might expect.  We returned home in the nick of time and promptly set off for Tsukiji Market where we encountered more styrofoam cartons of UFOs (Unidentifiable Fish Organs) that I could have ever imagined.  We did manage to sneak (re: gaijin smash) our way to the super-secret backroom where, only 6 days later a tuna would be sold for $175,000.

Eventually, we were shooed back to the main area.  Rumor has it that the bulk of the tuna auctions now happen completely behind closed doors.

Check out videos of the tuna auctions here.  They're not mine, but we were in there dodging men with hooked poles and "turret trucks" (ターレットトラック) - which look more like pod-racers full of tuna - with the rest of them.

Some photos of the carnage...

inspecting the fish and havin' a cigarette... not an uncommon sight

back to the main market area, watch the fingers now...

He could fillet a fish in less time than it took me to write this sentence.

Any guesses?  My money is on ovaries.  Ramble: I have, in fact, eaten fish ovaries.  Truth be told, they're not bad.

slabs of tuna, probably about a meter long

tea time

My apologies

My apologies, dear blog.  I have been neglecting you of late, and for that, I am sorry.  Forgetting is so easy with commercial free TV downloads and food blogs (my latest obsession and an excellent way to pass the time at work when I can't come up with anything else to laminate) and naps and trips and... I forget that I get joy from writing, that reworking phrases and running-on sentences is fun, and most of all that rereading what I have written brings back moments that might have otherwise disappeared forever.  So for all of the moments that I have already lost, I'm sorry I waited too long.

Here is one moment that has remained.

It was Christmas morning in Tokyo.  I think it is fair to say that Joe was somewhat less than delighted to be dragged out of bed and to the train station so we could head an hour south to a city called Kamakura whose main claim to fame is the Kamakura Daibutsu (literally, the Kamakura Big Buddha).

Joe:  "How big is this Buddha?"
Me: "I don't know.... big."
Joe: "Like, how big?  A couple stories?"
Me: "Look, I don't know.  It's a big Buddha, okay?  It's probs gonna be pretty big."
Joe: "grumblegrumblegrumble..."

We did a bit of wandering around the town before striking out towards the Big Buddha.  We paused at a shrine along the way.

Joe: "Is this it?  Where's the Buddha?"
Maggie: "Maybe, look, I don't know.  I don't think this is it, cause it's supposed to be big, and I don't see any gigantic peaceful looking dudes, do you?"
Joe: "What is this then?  Why aren't we going to see the Buddha?"
Maggie:  ".................."

Photos from the unidentified shrine, complete with mini-Buddha filled cave.

 
After wandering around said unidentified temple and garden, we arrived at the gate to the main event: The Big Buddha.

...walking along the path....

Joe: "Is this it?"
Me: "Yeah, I think so."
Joe: "Are you sure?"
Me: "Well, that sign right there says 'Kamakura Daibutsu', so yeah, it looks that way."
Joe: "So where's the... oh...... daaaaaamn....... that is a big Buddha."
Me: "Uh huh."

Lost the sun, found a pumpkin

Spring Vacation Text Message Update
Katy and I spent two days wandering around Naoshima checking out
modern art (the beach pumkin is a classic photo opp), and we are now
preparing to go tuck into our surprisingly unadorable mountainside
hostel in Oboke and get ready for the long train ride home.

Chasing the sun

Spring Vacation Text Message Update:
Hello all, Katy and I wish you sunshine and wine, both of which have
made our vacation Japantabulous.
Katy and Maggie
*Photo taken at the top of Kotohira Shrine, Kagawa, Shikoku.

McCarrons in Japan: photo album #1

Check out some photos from our first couple days in Japan, December 24th to the 26th.  These photos were taken in Tokyo, Kamakura, and at the Tsukiji Fish Market (Tokyo).

click the link to see the photo album: Giants in Japan

More photos and stories to come later!  I'm headed to Nagano this weekend for my first (and only???) ski vacation!  The black diamonds are the slopes I should be avoiding, right?

My Dream Vacation

Today's dream vacations are brought you by the letter B and the 1nensei (7th grade) students of Nuka JHS. 

Hey look, Japan!  They are practicing "going to" and being creative!
(click the images to enlarge)

And a few more of my favorites:

Dear Aki,

        How are you doing?  I am enjoying my vacation in Belgium.  I'm going to eat chocolate very good.  I'm going to beautiful city.  I'm going to eat dinner.  I'm going to go everyon my home. We're going to party.

today very much.

                                                                                                                                Love,

                                                                                                                                Sayo

Dear Kiura,

       How are you doing?

I'm enjoying my vacation in Billy joel home.  Bille and me is going to sing to the accompaniment of
a piano. You are come on.  Let's singing to together.

                                                                                                                                 Katsuhisa

Dear ________,

       How are you doing?  I am enjoying my vacation in Australia.  I'm going to visit my friend Iku next Tuesday.  I'm going to stay for five days.  We're going to zoo.  We're going to touch koala.  It's going to be very cute.  I'm going to be exciting.  See you soon.

                                                                                                                                Nanami

Dear family,

       How are you doing?  I am enjoying my vacation in Venezuela.  I'm going to have coffee breakfast.  I'm going to

                                                                                                                                Hiroshi Maeda

Now that is a vacation after my own heart... who cares what else you are doing when you are having coffee breakfast in Venezuela?

McCarrons in Japan: The Reunion

This entry is a few months late in coming, but I hope you will forgive me.  To quote a recent facebook post of my brother's (thank you Newsfeed for doing my stalking for me), "Sometimes there are too many stories... happening to take the time to write some."  Better late than never though, so here goes the beginning of The McCarrons in Japan.

It all started with a Christmas cookie filled reunion at Narita Airport outside Tokyo on Decemeber 23rd.  My father had managed to carry a plate (the original Christmas themed Dixie) of Tracey's Christmas cookies all the way from Minnesota to Tokyo.  Tracey, resident Christmas Cookie Queen, makes a plate of Christmas cookies every year.  And every year, I wait with anticipation for the moment that I can snatch a handful.  The lemon bars (pictured) are my favorites.  Needless to say, I was delighted by the surprise and happily consumed all but the smallest crumbs as we waited for my lovely mother to arrive.


We waited in one of the ubiquitous Starbucks.  My eyes, still trained by Kanazawa to pick out a foreigner a mile away, were having a hard time keeping up with the deluge.  As I watched the crowds pass though, one man in particular stuck out.  He looked familiar.  As I stared at him with inappropriate intensity, I realized how I knew him.  We had taken a couple of Educational Studies courses together at Macalester, of course.  I went over to say hello.  We helpfully reminded each other of our names (Chris, I knew it was something Scandinavian), and it turns out he was here visiting family for the winter vacation.  Sometimes it is a small small world.


Mom and I managed to keep the reunion tears to a minimum, and soon we headed off to the Rogers's house where we would stay for the next five days.

Photos from December 24th, spent wandering around the greater Shinjuku area.

Keio Plaza Hotel - home of the JET Orientation for 20 years running

Tokyo City Hall aka Gotham City

He found the waterfall. : )

a different view of Tokyo, just behind City Hall

 

nice dragon faucet at a temple tucked behind the shanty town tucked behind City Hall... this is Tokyo

Notice the woman in full on traditional bridal wear in the back.  We were too sheepish to go ask her for a photo. 

That's a lot of balls.

Your Daily Moment of Zen

Your daily moment of Zen is brought to you today by a 3nensei (9th grader) at Nuke Junior High School...

I was impressed with the evening sun.

 It was the most beautiful of all things. 

The sky was dyed by the sun.

I was tired, but I became fine.

(Olivos, Portugal / Summer 2009)

Turns out he did have clothes...

Okay, after recently publishing a facebook album in just under 36 hours from the time stamp of the last photo, I have renewed motivation to be more timely in my internet endeavors. So here goes the second half of my Emperor saga:



The Imperial Palace is long and low and sleek like a 1960's rambler that Frank Lloyd Wright might have designed. I snagged a spot near the front and immediately felt bad for the people stuck staring at my shoulder blades. Almost as immediately I decided that I didn't care. Consider it karmic revenge for all those brain cells I have lost on short doorways. (on a side note: As I was standing, spine pressed to the back railing at a concert and enjoying my uninterrupted view of the stage, a tall friend of mine leaned down and whispered, "JET - my years standing at the back of rooms.")

When the Emperor finally appeared, Empress and Imperial Family in tow, I strained to get a better view of Princess Masako, the Harvard educated diplomat who is the subject of severe public censure as a result of her inability to produce a male heir. Yes, this is the modern world... though I do wonder. On the other hand, Michelle Obama would likely get a serious tongue lashing were she to show a hint of upper arm fat.

Princess Masako is on the far right next to her husband, Crown Prince Naruhito of the flowy hair.



Anyway, the fam came, they waved, we all stood as his royal highness gave a birthday speech. Then the real fun started as the entire crowd launched into the customary shouts of "banzai!" and frantically waved their flags.

I wonder how many times his highness gives that speech per birthday and if he changes it up just to keep himself from dying of boredom.

Probs not... might disturb the wa (和).










We were filed out post speech at which point I suggested to my new found companion that we head to the station Starbucks and camp out for some quality people watching. It was just a half second before he rearranged his face into the look that we have all acquired for dealing with particularly confusing, frustrating, and just outright obnoxious JTE's. The "oh, okay, that's what you want to do? hmmm, well, *deep breath* alright, I guess we can work with that" look.

He was obviously horrified.

I should have realized that he was the kind of guy who was genuinely excited that he got to stand in line at the crack of dawn in the freezing cold to go watch an old, short Japanese man give a 4 minute speech that he couldn't understand. Don't get me wrong, I am just tickled that I got to see an emperor, or I should say, since he is currently the only one in the world, and I have been trying to explain to my students the difference between "a" (one of many, nonspecific) and "the" (unique, specific), I got to see the emperor. How ridiculous is that? I saw the only emperor in the entire world. Well, obviously there is only one because it is such an absurdly fairy-tale-esque title. Like saying you went to see the local hobgoblin or the sorceress next door. Ridiculous.

If there is one truly amazing thing about Japan, it is the ability of Japanese people to take the most seemingly phantasmagorical things with the utmost seriousness and ceremony.

My friend, coworker, and fellow tall gaijin often jokes that he feels like a giant, stomping through this island country with an Arnold Schwartzenegger like slowness to his speech, destroying doorways and centuries of tradition with even the slightest sudden movement.

We are elephants learning to walk on eggshells.

The Emperor Has No Clothes

The word "emperor" is mentioned, and I just can't help but think of a vain old man parading naked in front of the unwashed masses. Maybe that is just me though. I'm sure that that was not the thought process of the thousands of Japanese people queuing to see "His Imperial Majesty the Emperor" on December 23rd when the big guy turned 76.

After an 8 hr night bus ride, I arrived in Tokyo at 6:00 a.m. on December 23rd. Seeings as it was the current emperor's birthday and one of the two days per year that he and The Imperial Family come out to greet said masses, I wandered my unwashed self on over to the Palace to check out the shindig for myself.

All I could see were layers upon layers of barricades and traffic cones. There didn't appear to be anyone around. Was it possible that I, Maggie McCarron, gaijin extraordinaire, was the most patriotic person in all of Japan?

Inconceivable.






the 12 most patriotic people in Japan








Then, across the stillness of the morning, I heard a hearty chuckle that could only belong to the second most patriotic gaijin in Japan. He was at a corner across the street from me, chatting to several older Japanese folk who alternated between looks of terror and looks of absolute befuddlement. Turns out that Sandy and I tied for 13th most patriotic. He, a JET from some village north of Tokyo, had also arrived on a night bus with time to kill before his afternoon flight. So we killed some time.

We killed a lot of time.
















The line grew, people queuing down the block like ants behind a particularly insurmountable twig. A man passed out paper Japanese flags. I snacked on my box of combini chocolates. My toes went numb. The sun crept across the intersection toward us, carefully warming inch after slow inch of asphalt.

Finally, we moved. It was after ten in the morning. I had waited almost 3 hours to see a guy whose name I still don't know.















After a quick security check, we were on the lawn. We waited. The sun warmed my back. I saw people trying to inch out of my shadow's reach. Sometimes it is good to be tall.

I ate more chocolate.

















And then all of a sudden it was here, the moment for which we had spent all morning waiting. We were crossing the bridge into the Imperial Palace, Tokyo sprawling in every direction from this ancient grassy knoll.

As the crowd swelled across the bridge and flowed up the curving driveway though yet another set of gates, I wondered if this was what the Russian peasants felt like when they stormed the Winter Palace.


Yeah, it was probs a little different for them.

30 cm and still falling

I had meant for my next post to be a chronicle of the McCarron Family Vacation: Japan, but something has come up. Or rather come down. 30 cm of it. And it is still falling. Beautiful, white, and fluffy, the heavy blanket of snow covering Kanazawa has had me humming "walking in a winter wonderland" for the past 6 hours. I didn't believe it when I heard that 30 cm (that's 11.8 inches) had fallen since I left school at 4pm. Impossible, I thought.


















1 - my bus stop 2 - the combini next to my bus stop

After getting off at my bus stop and wading through drifts that skimmed the very tops of my size 12 rainboots, I can say that, with every fiber of my being, I am a believer. And it is still coming down! 80 cm more predicted for tonight, and the forecast is nothing but snow for the next two days. Despite the horrified looks of my friends and coworkers and the fact that the temperature in my apartment has reached a new low (2 C / 36 F), I am delighted! I'm not sure what is it about the gigantic layer of crystallized water outside that makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside, but who am I to question warmth, imagined or otherwise?


















3 - across the street 4 - cars on the walk home

My internal glow combined with the miraculous disappearance of all moisture and condensation (take that, mold!) from my apartment makes for one happy camper. That said, I have now retreated, kerosene heater in tow, to my bedroom, leaving my living room and kitchen to battle the elements to the best of their meager abilities. I'll check on them again when spring rolls around. The fact that they remain within 2 degrees of the temperature outside does have it's up-sides, namely that I could open my living room window to photograph the snow without noticing any significant heat loss or temperature change. :D


















5 and 6 - the view from my living room window

In all likelihood, by the start of next week Kanazawa will have returned to it's damp and slushy self, but in the mean time... in the lane, snow is glistening....



The photos were all taken this evening on my iPhone.

Baking an Apple Pie in a Moven

Movens are Japan's solution for the oven shortage. Personally, I would think that in a cold and damp country that does not believe in insulation OR central heating, having ovens come standard in the kitchen would be a no-brainer. You can bake delicious things AND be warm. But no, instead, we have movens. What is a moven you ask? A moven is like the confused love-child of a microwave and a convection oven. Is it a microwave? Yes. Is it an oven? Yes. And there you have it, the beauty of the moven.

We decided to put my friend Katy's moven to the test last weekend and bake a pie to bring to the Thanksgiving potluck in the Noto Pennisula. As we put the foil pie pan in to pre-bake the crust, I think my heart may have stopped for a moment. I mean, FOIL?! In a microwave?! You have got to be kidding, right?! Nope, the crust came out just barely browned and delicious. No sparks, no fires, no explosions. Just one awesome moven.

After my nerves were calmed, we went at the pie baking with enthusiasm that can only be explained by 4 months sans oven. I piled the filling as high as physics would allow, and we crossed our fingers as we set the timer on the moven. About 30 minutes later, we opened the door. It smelled like apple pie. In fact, it smelled like really GOOD apple pie. The top was slightly singed, but considering that we had just baked a pie in a tin foil pan in a microwave, I would say that it was a glorious success.
I need a moven.

Karen and Katy














a very multicultural Thanksgiving around the kotatsu (heated coffee table)














eating chili and mashed pumpkin with chopsticks (Katy, Rachel, Sarah, Karen, and Chris - the host)


















the cutest Japanese blur I have ever met

It was not the most traditional Thanksgiving that I have ever had. After all, the closest thing we came to poultry was some incredible fried chicken, and eating chili with chopsticks just doesn't scream "Thanksgiving!". But at the same time, (forgive me as I get a smidge philosophical here) maybe it was more traditional than any turkey and cranberries Thanksgiving can ever be. What is Thanksgiving really? It is a day to gather together, to share food, and to be thankful. And that is exactly what we did.

I did miss the fake cranberry sauce though. :)

Sweet Shrimp and Moonlit Baths

Happy Thanksgiving to one and all!

I spent this year's festival of gluttony at a conference for Ishikawa ALTs (Assistant Language Teachers) in Hakui, a small city about an hour north of Kanazawa. The conference ran from Thursday to Friday, so Thursday night (Thanksgiving night) found me on the floor, contorted into the most uncomfortable position, trying to squeeze my legs under an individual sized floor table. (Note to 6' women every where: pencil skirts are not made for dining on the floor if you have any desire to retain a semblance of grace and/or dignity.) As the blood flow trickled to a bare minimum and my right foot began to look positively vampiric, I eyeballed the dinner they had prepared for us.

It eyeballed me back.

Nestled cozily amongst other slices of raw fish flesh was a whole raw shrimp, in all of it's raw translucent glory. It's eyeballs were an eerie bluish gray. And they were looking at me. In the spirit of adventure, I had previously eaten one of said Japanese delicacies (called "amai ebi", literally "sweet shrimp" a winter delicacy in Ishikawa, lucky me) and found it palatable. However, I am not particularly interested in shrimp even when it is breaded and fried, so raw and leggy is not on my list of favorites. I traded it for a clementine and enjoyed the rest of my meal... well, except for the fishy custard.

Later that night I had my first onsen experience. (Click on the word "onsen" for an excellent Wikipedia article detailing the history, etiquette, etc. of onsens.) Though there was a little akwardness as we attempted to maintain normal conversation all the while getting naked under fluorescent lights, once we entered the steamy shower room and were presented with the prospect of relaxing in an outdoor bath under the moonlight, the awkwardness drifted away with the steam. It was lovely.

More later on baking apple pie in a microwave and trying to approximate Thanksgiving in Japan. For now, check out my latest Facebook album: Senmaida Wedding